Celebrations of Indian clothing are seen in large strokes across the recent spring/summer runway. Sometimes in factual translations, like dresses sparkling with embellishment in silhouettes mimicking lehengas, and other times through luxurious colors pulled from memories of unforgettable Indian adventures. The gracefulness between West and East is more evident than ever this season. What is certain is that India’s influence for spring/summer has allowed for something more varied and a wide net of influence that is steeped in a rich appreciation for all things Indian! Borrow It Bindaas explores the catwalks of this season to see who has the exact Indian touch!
Matthew Williamson has visited India over 40 times. He experienced the Holi festival in one of his trips, and the idea of carnival-goers throwing brightly colored powders over each other really had him thinking, moreover he drew on this for the powder prints in his Spring/Summer 2013 collection.
Pinks bled into whites on a smooth sheath dress with ambers dripped into ochres over a mountainous scene printed on Bermuda shorts, all of which were brought to life from Matthew Willamson’s colorful India memories.
Marchesa is one of our favorite designers who also found their influence in just a beat of a heart from India this season! Layered gowns were fashioned to form saree-like shapes. Meticulously arranged crystals sat encrusted on radiant fuchsia tones, while a white lehenga inspired two-piece dress floated with feather-like softness down the runway.
We love how the result of the line honored Indian costumes with evolution towards modernity while retaining the classic elegance and modification of our traditions. This season’s designer, Georgina Chapman said that she used traditional Indian techniques and that the silhouettes are embellished with pearls and crystals.
Vera Wang’s use of layering coupled with South Asian textures, colors, prints, and embroideries. Her inspiration was the masculine tailoring of Indian men’s traditional dress with the delicate grace of saree, and new less literal translation of Indian glamor.
The sumptuous, intricate brocades, gauzy ikats, and the deep color palette of jade, sapphire, and gold were suggestive of India. We think Vera Wang’s dance with the country and its sweeping history and luscious visual liveliness was expertly assembled.
Mary Katrantzou sure knows how to command a crowd, and she sure knows how to command a print to do something different with it and move it on to a whole new place. Her Spring/Summer collection was of beautiful old Indian stamps splashed with symbolic birds, icons, national symbols, history, and works of art.
She used earthy tones of amber and green to represent India’s rich agriculture wealth, and hints of fresh blue to represent the all-year sunshine and blue skies India experiences. The zig-zag lines are not only to represent the stamps’ edges but also the hundred of railway lines that goes around India. We love how Mary’s perception of the line was more about the stories and print!
So there it is! The richness of India’s visual heritage is always an inspiration to abroad designers. The embroideries and color from India are so magnificent that they will always be an influence in the fashion industry. What’s your take? Leave us and comment and let us know!
Written exclusively for ‘Borrow It Bindaas’ by Monika Rajwani
Photo Courtesy: Vogue UK